Modern central government has imposed names upon this region yet none encompass its tradition of fine food and way of life as well as the former French province of the Périgord. Renowned for truffles, “confit de canard”, “fois gras” and Périgourdine wine, these forested, limestone river valleys have nurtured man, as a hunter-gatherer and later as a farmer, for 450,000 years. So how do you go about sampling some of the best Périgourdine food in a country that is passionate about its gourmet cuisine?
First: find yourself a table for two in a medieval village overlooking the ancient river. As your host settles you down he might recommend something from his wine list, a “Mille et une Pierres", 2011, perhaps? Hmm, so smooth with the tiny “amuse-bouche” hors d’oeuvre.
Then: from the Menu Fénelon, accept the Patron’s suggestion of “la cassolette d’écrevisses et moules”, followed by “le carré d’agneau aux herbes”.
You’re ravenous, you have just walked from your last hotel, do the portions look small? It’s OK, trust him, he's done it before. Foolishly the Patron is engaged on ambitious topics such as the French life style and the President who hails from this region. Patiently the Patron deals with his customers’ terrible French while the last slice of lamb congeals in its sauce. With a sigh, the final morsel is consumed after the Patron has politely disengaged to head back to the kitchen. Ah, even cold, it is still delicious.
Finally: indulge yourself with a desert – pear poached in red wine with a lightly spiced jus de poire and home made ice-cream.
What about le plateau de fromage, did you say? Naturally there is cheese, varieties with local and national reputation, but on this occasion it was just physically too much.
So how DO you go about sampling the best of Périgourdine cuisine? You put yourself in the hands of the French, they know what they are doing.
The next day, of course, there is breakfast… with fluffy croissants and aromatic coffee. Again this region is famous, this time for its soft fruit preserves. Fresh peach, myrtille, strawberry. Do the portions look too big? It’s OK, trust me, you have to walk to your next hotel. Great food, good to walk it off, Happy Hiking. See more about Macs Adventure's Hilltop Villages of the Dordogne trip here.